Tulum with tweens

I'm still here! Thought I'd write about our vacation to Tulum this past week. The kids' school is off for 'fall break,' which includes Dia de los Muertos and our Halloween. Last year, Daddy was in VA, so we stayed put. This year, having learned how strict the school is about absences during the year, I decided to take advantage!

You may have heard that Tulum is either overrun with backpackers or has become the new celebrity hot spot. From our observations, both appeared true. We saw tons of hippies/backpackers and quite a few beautiful and obviously wealthy people who were enjoying the high end hotels. Very few kids, but now that mine are tweens (heaven help me), this wasn't a big deal.

I didn't know much about the area when I booked my hotel, and was a little surprised at the prices. I found a rather affordable hotel, Zamas Hotel, that we adored, but it turns out it is a little cheaper probably because it's not on the main beach. So, if you want to go to that gorgeous white sand/turquoise water beach, you have to get there on foot/taxi and pay to use chairs belonging to another hotel or endure the hot sun (the beach is public). We had a car, and fell into a lovely routine of visiting a cenote or ruins in the morning and then either having lunch in town or at the beach and spending the pm at the beach. It was utterly perfect but might not be for everyone.

Beautiful Zamas Hotel. There are about 4 bungalows right on the beach

Oceanfront chica room sleeps 4, across the street from the beach

Pros of Zamas Hotel: lovely setting, beautiful but rustic rooms, connection with nature, well maintained mosquito nets (how many hotels have I visited where they give you a net, but it is ridden with holes!? Not Zamas!), strong fans in the room, great restaurant, friendly staff, beautiful pool

Cons of Zamas Hotel: not on main beach, no a/c (not an issue this time, as it was cool at night and the fans were great, but I wouldn't stay here in summertime)

For comparison, here are photos of the main Tulum beach. So it's not that the Zamas beach isn't pretty, it's that this is even more gorgeous. This beach goes on for miles. The water was turquoise and the sand white and soft.

We had two wonderful meals on the beach at Ziggy's and Ahau Tulum. It seemed to be normal for the hotels to let you use their day beds/chairs in return for a minimum consumption, but I suspect in high season it's harder to do that. Prices were high ($10-20 for an entree) so I'm not sure I'd want to do this daily, but it was fine for two days. Amazing food!

Tuna tostada at Ziggy's 

beer battered fish tacos at Ziggy's

Grilled fish, pork tacos, hummus and veggies, tuna tostada at Ahau Tulum

Speaking of food, I was obsessed about eating at Hartwood, a restaurant I read about some 5 years ago. They had been closed for two months and reopened the day before we left. We went early and were able to get a table around 6pm. I will admit it was not AS great as I expected, but we had a lovely meal. My favorite was the jicama salad. Forgot to take a pic of the entrees!












And now for a cenote review. We visited four cenotes and from my online research it was hard to tell which were better than others. We really didn't see many creatures in the cenotes, which was disappointing, but we were amazed at the clarity of the water and found the cave atmosphere pretty cool. Luckily, the water was not too frigid, though it was 'refreshing.' We did see some fish, crabs, and small turtles.

Note that you should not wear any sunscreen or lotion unless it's biodegradable. I was worried about sunburn but in the first two, you are not exposed to much sun. At the second two, they are in the open, so we just limited our stay to about an hour or two.

My son, who really fell in love with the cenotes, recommends the four we visited in the following order:

1) Dos Ojos
This is the biggest and most expensive and involves the most caves. For 350 pesos, you can visit two cenotes on your own. If you want to hire a guide and see the third, it will be 600 pesos for the whole package. We just did the basic. This one is well equipped with lockers, restrooms, changing area. Lots of divers around. I didn't get any photos of this one but just google it.

2) El Gran Cenote
I think this one was 200 pesos per person. This is the main swimming area but you can wind around a bit. It's not that big and was a bit crowded when we went on a Sunday. In retrospect, we should have gone on a weekday. The kids liked seeing the turtles here. This one has restrooms, changing area, showers, hammocks for lounging, even a small cafeteria.

3) Cenote Crystal /Escondido (two for the price of one)

Crystal just looks like a big pond, but the kids enjoyed jumping from the platform and it's very peaceful. We heard Escondido is better, but on the day we visited, it was closed. They reduced the 120 peso fee for us to 60 pesos since only one was open, and kids were just 25 pesos I think. 

4) Cenote Manati (follow signs for Casa Cenote)
This cenote is like a lazy river- you just swim for a while and then turn around. There are no caves here - for snorkelers anyway. We saw fish, crabs, and even a small crocodile, which freaked out my husband a bit. This was the most rustic- portapotty only, a few flimsy lockers, no food. I can't remember the cost.

Akumal
We also went to Akumal to see the turtles, and that experience was rather disappointing, but if we hadn't done it, I would have wondered. It was an absolute tourist trap- from the moment you pull into the parking area, people are trying to sell you packages. It was hard to know what/who to believe. We ignored everyone until we got out to the beach and tried to understand how to see the turtles. Due to the incredible tourist volume, they have cordoned off the water access so that you can only see the turtles if you hire a guide and swim/snorkel within a specific path. Each guide is only allowed to take 12 people daily. You must wear a life vest and no fins are allowed due to possibility of hitting the coral.  I believe we spent 300 pesos per person, bargained down from about 500. We stored most of our stuff in the car, but left the key and clothes in a plastic bin (unlocked) watched by the group we chose. It was not ideal, but we chose to believe it would be ok.

When the guide reported to a uniformed Ministry of the Environment worker that she was taking out four people, I finally believed that we had been told the truth about the rules. We did see two big turtles, a barracuda, and a manta ray, but I felt a bit sad about the whole experience and would not do it again. Afterwards, we stayed and swam, but the beach was super crowded (and yet, this was not high season!) and it was a lively scene. Fine for a day, but I'm glad that was not where we were staying.

Imagine this little bit of water with about two hundred more people. I must have taken a shot before it got busy. 

Tulum Ruins
So I'm going to be honest with you- I thought I was interested in seeing the ruins, but really I was all about the beach. I wanted to get that iconic shot of the ruins from the beach, but I was too busy swimming, claiming my tiny spot in the sand among all the tourists, and dealing with my cranky son who just wanted to go to the cenote. The grounds of the ruins are just lovely- you could definitely spend some time here, but we did not...it was straight down to the beach.

Ok we got one ruin pic at least

Seriously, that's the color of the water

Sadly, our vacation came to an end much too soon. We did not visit Xel-Ha, Xcaret, and any other 'manufactured' water park. I thought there was so much natural stuff to see that we had no need!

I loved the beauty of Tulum and the diversity of activities, but I'm not sure if we will go back as a family. I would definitely go for a long weekend where I can just plop myself down on the beach and chill. But I kept thinking about what it would be like in high season- terrible. There is just one long and skinny road that connects everything. It has no pedestrian/bike path and I kept thinking how wonderful it would be if everyone just worked together to build one. Then they could seriously reduce the car volume. It's a bit dangerous to walk down that road with the volume and speed of all the cars/trucks/etc.

I'm sure when Tulum first became popular they did not need sidewalks, but now they do...

Overall, it was a wonderful trip and I hope to go back someday, but not in December or April!

Zhangjiajie with kids, day three (Tianmen Mountain)

In ZJJ city, we stayed at the Bajie Ren Wen Hotel (also known as Bajie Hill Inn), which was cute and much more Western-tourist friendly than our first hotel. The room did have its issues, however, most importantly being a non-Western toilet (not sure if all rooms are this way). This took me back to my Peace Corps days! By the time we got there, my daughter had gotten used to it, but just FYI if that's an issue for you. It's located in a cute little alley way but is hard to find. And it's noisy. Very thin windows and walls.

Day three might have been my favorite. Or maybe not. It's hard to pick! We took a cab over to the Tianmen Mountain cable car station. Our guide had already waited in a 45 minute line to buy the tickets, but then we waited in line for about an hour to get onto the car. It's just crazy how many people were there, and even I could see that the lines could be much longer. But I wouldn't want to be there when that happened.

This cable car ride is the longest in the world (~30 minutes). It starts in town and goes to the top of Tianmen Mountain. It gets very steep! It also goes through a lot of different scenery, and is really a lovely ride. 

 

Upon arrival at the top, Grace suggested we walk all around the mountain. One section is a glass walkway, but most of it is a lovely wooden walkway bolted into the side of the mountain. It looked quite sturdy and we didn't stop to think about it.

 The glass walkway requires a small entrance fee and shoe slippers. It really didn't seem like much to me, but then I don't have a fear of heights, I guess.

The glass walkway turned to wood again and we walked on. Suddenly we found ourselves in a sea of red ribbons. We learned that the Chinese write a wish on a ribbon and tie it on a tree, so of course we wanted to do the same!

 There was also a cool bridge, with great views.

I think he's telling her about Dungeons and Dragons here. 

After the walk around the mountain, it was time to head down to the hole inside the mountain. This required 7 LOOONNNG escalator rides! And after that? 999 steps down to the base of the mountain. The kids really loved all these little challenges and transportation methods.

We stopped to take a few pictures on the way down. 

Above is at the base of the mountain hole. You are still pretty far up. And I'm sorry to say that this is the only way down:

This road has 99 curves and they don't take them gently. It takes about 45 minutes. We made sure our stomachs were full before we got on the bus and we sat in the front. No one tossed their cookies, but I wouldn't really like to do that again. 

And that concluded our Tianmen Mountain day and our trip to Zhangjiajie! I did like the third day the most, because it included so many interesting aspects. 

Overall, it was a really cool trip, and we are glad we went!

Zhangjiajie with kids, day two

On day two we headed to Tianzi Mountain, another popular scenic spot in the park, but one that is less visited since they closed a cable car route for maintenance. We again had to take the bus to the glass elevator to another bus ride, this one 45 minutes long. This bus ride went through some winding roads- if you are apt to get carsick, be forewarned. With all the waiting at each stage, it took us about 2.5 hours to reach the sightseeing area.

However, I liked this area even more. It was a little more built up and a little more beautiful. It helped that the day was prettier- bluer sky and all. We did eat at McDonald's, because there was really nothing else. And boy, did it taste good.

After lunch, I forget exactly how we got down to the valley, but I think it involved a bus ride or two and a cable car ride. We took the Golden Whip Stream hike, which I would really call more of a walk on a paved path and sometimes a wood walkway. I wish it had been dirt, as our feet were really sore from walking on so much concrete when we were done. We walked an hour or two through the valley and it was really lovely. It looked like both Oregon (my husband's home state) and West Virginia, (a state where my family has spent a lot of time) so we were both homesick and happy.  But I think if you have just come from the U.S., this might not be that special.

That night we drove back to ZJJ City, which looked larger and more developed after 2 nights in Wulingyuan.

Zhangjiajie, Hunan with kids (part one)

Brand new, futuristic airport

Last weekend we traveled to Zhangjiajie, Hunan province, to see the national park where the movie Avatar was allegedly filmed. It was our first trip to the interior of China and was definitely a new experience for us.

I'm going to share my thoughts and tips in case they can help someone out there. Since I have ok Chinese at this point, I thought we could navigate this trip on our own. As I researched more, however, I realized how incredibly huge and complex the park is, how many different movements there would be, and how confusing it was likely to be. In China, I feel like they unnecessarily complicate things, even simple things, so I realized that doing it on my own with three people relying on me would NOT BE FUN. It would be one thing if I was traveling alone or with a friend and we could just wander. But I was there with my family and had only 3 days. Thus, we hired a guide, Grace from Synotrip, and thank goodness we did.


First, some clarification:

• Zhangjiajie (ZJJ) is a city in Hunan Province. The airport is here (code is DYG). 
• Zhangjiajie National Park (where the famous Hallelujah Mountains are situated) is in Wulingyuan, a small town about 45 minutes away from ZJJ City. 
• Wulingyuan Scenic and Historic Interest was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992. It covers an enormous area, including the park, and you can only see a small part of it during a 3 day trip.  
• Most people do a few nights in Wulingyuan and then 1 night in ZJJ city, because the Tianmen Mountain cable car (longest cable car ride in the world) starts in ZJJ. 
• Tianzi Mountain (see day two) is inside ZJJ National Park, not to be confused with Tianmen Mountain, 45 minutes away in ZJJ. 
• Tianmen Mountain (see day three) is a huge mountain with a hole in it. You may have heard about the bird-man flying through the hole  and other stunts. There is also a cool glass walkway here. The brand new glass bridge you may have heard about is not yet finished and that is in the Grand Canyon area. 

Wulingyuan Town is quite lovely

Wulingyuan Hotel

Travel and lodging: We took a 1.5 hour non-stop flight from Guangzhou and arrived at the brand new ZJJ airport in the afternoon. We took a taxi to Wulingyuan town, about 45 min away. There are tons of cheap hotels and it was hard to know what to choose but we were pleased with our choices. We stayed two nights in the Wulingyuan Hotel in Wulingyuan, which is at the base of the mountains. Hard beds and Chinese breakfast but it met our needs and was cheap!

Avatar photo opp!

Walking around town

Zhangjiajie National Park: We followed our guide and this is the itinerary she suggested for us. We saw the highlights with thousands of our friends and also got off the main path for some quieter experiences. There is so much to see, but we were happy with this.

I don't have a wide angle lens on my camera, so photos are not as good as I wish they were. But this is really a place you have to see for yourself.

Day One: 
Yuanjiajie scenic area (apparently the most popular area, hugely congested). It was a little hazy that first day, so photos are not that great. Just to give you an idea of the park's size, getting here required a ~15 minute bus to the elevator, a line to get into the elevator, a smaller elevator and then larger, glass elevator, walking for about 10 minutes, and then, I think you were there. Unless there was one more bus ride. It's all running together in my mind, but you can see why a guide might be helpful...

Here's the glass elevator. Unless you are one of the first people in, you can't see much.

And an idea of the crowds. This was waiting for the first bus.

It's worth it when you get up there, though.

Lunch at an outdoor restaurant- just to give you an idea.

After lunch, our guide led us on a hike of about 2 hours round trip. First a dirt path and then a stone path led us to this awesome staircase and a 360 viewing platform which we shared with just a handful of people. It's called "One Step to Heaven."

Next, we kept going to another viewing platform where we sat on a rock and just took it all in. It's called "Corridor in the Cliff."

At this point, it was about 3pm and Grace suggested that we go to Tianzi Mountain, so that we wouldn't have to pay for the elevator again the next day. But it was still a 45 minute bus ride, I think, plus the sightseeing and the getting back down, and we were too tired. Again, this park is HUGE!

General Tips: 

• We went after the national holiday, in October, and crowds were still overwhelming for us. I do not recommend going between April/May and September or on a Chinese holiday! Our guide told us lines were like 6 hours long just to get from one stage to the next. The viewing platforms are small and you will be fighting for space. I think the best time would be late October/ November. Cooler weather, less crowds, lower chance of rain. I heard the middle of winter is beautiful, but you also have the possibility of snow/ice (roads are winding and I would not want to be on a bus if there was ice) and some transport methods being closed. 
• The park is huge. There are lots of transport methods and lots of lines to get from one to the other. Definitely find a way to do some hiking other than just looking at the viewing platforms. On the second day, it was like 3pm before we felt like we had actually gotten out and moved our bodies- it was all bus to elevator to bus to cable car ride etc. 
• Lodging and food are cheap, but tickets for the parks and the rides like cable car and glass elevator are not. The entrance ticket for the ZJJ park is RMB250 per adult, kids under 1.3m are free. Same for the Tianmen Mountain cable car. There are lots of other expenses. We estimate we spent about $800 USD for a family of four for 3 days, not including hotel, but including the tour guide. 
• There is not a big Western presence here. Don't expect anyone to speak English or any Western food in Wulingyuan. 
• There are restrooms everywhere (only squatty potties for the most part) but no soap or toilet paper. Come prepared!
• In ZJJ National Park, there is a McDonald's on Tianzi Mountain (not to be confused with Tianmen Mountain in ZJJ city) but otherwise there is only Chinese street food. I was quite concerned about food safety. In Yuanjiajie, there are some very basic, outdoor sit down restaurants. Consider bringing your own food if you are not down with these options. 

Stay tuned for days two and three!